The Wife’s Guide to Tattersalls
Insider knowledge for making the most of Newmarket
By Tamso Doyle Cox
If you’re heading to Tattersalls with a husband, partner, friend or family member, you might wonder what on earth you’re going to do while everyone discusses pedigrees, black type and the price of yearlings.
But why should the horse buying be left to somebody else?
Buying horses certainly isn’t a boys’ club. Whether you’re interested in buying a share, joining a syndicate or finding a horse of your own, there’s absolutely no reason not to get involved.
And Tattersalls is a wonderful place to start.
Newmarket is the home of British racing, and there really is nowhere quite like it. The entire town revolves around horses. You’ll see strings of beautifully turned-out thoroughbreds heading to the gallops, crossing the roads and generally going about their daily business. Horses almost have right of way here, which is rather lovely.
I’ve spent most of my life around bloodstock sales, and I still get a buzz arriving at Tattersalls. The horses, the people, the anticipation before a big lot enters the ring and the endless conversations about what something sold for — or should have sold for.
Newmarket may not have quite the shopping and lifestyle distractions of some other sales destinations, but that’s part of its charm. You’re completely immersed in the racing world.
So my advice is to embrace it. Spend time at the sales, enjoy the atmosphere, watch the horses and the people, and then escape for a few hours when you fancy a change of scene.
Here are a few of my favourite places and things to do.
Tattersalls is the world’s oldest horse sale
First things first: the sales
Tattersalls is one of the great bloodstock sales venues in the world, and there is something special about its atmosphere.
There are several major sales throughout the year, from the July Sale in midsummer to the October Yearling Sales, when some of the world’s most exciting young thoroughbreds go through the ring. The December Foal Sale, held in late November, leads into the prestigious December Mare Sale, another highlight of the international bloodstock calendar.
Each has its own atmosphere and is well worth experiencing. You can find the latest dates and catalogues on the Tattersalls website.
My first suggestion is to pick up a catalogue and have a proper wander around. Keep your wits about you, though, and always give the horses plenty of room — particularly around their back ends! Horses should have the right of way, and avoid waving umbrellas about or making sudden loud noises.
Enjoy watching the horses being shown, see the buyers and agents going about their inspections and take in some of the best people-watching in racing.
Make sure you take a seat in the auditorium and watch plenty of horses sell. It’s fascinating, particularly when the bidding really gets going.
One important tip: don’t wave at anyone in the auditorium unless you’re absolutely certain you’re not bidding for a horse.
Unless, of course, you actually intend to buy one. In which case, wave away as freely as you like — particularly if the horse happens to be consigned by Baroda Stud!
The Baroda Stud Consignment, Newmarket is incredible for amazing sunrises and sunsets
Coffee, lunch and a little luxury
There are several options for eating at Tattersalls. The Red Room offers a luxurious restaurant experience and a high-end wine list, with catering by the expert team at Crown Catering, who incidentally also now run The Tack Room restaurant at the National Horseracing Museum. It’s worth booking ahead for a special sales lunch.
The Green Room is the more casual, self-service option, and there’s also a café and coffee wagon on site.
Personally, I’d recommend finding a really good coffee down in Newmarket before heading up to the sales. More on that shortly.
What to wear
Tattersalls is very much a working sales environment, so practicality is important.
You’ll see everything from smart jeans and beautiful cashmere to trainers, boots and weatherproof coats.
My advice is to wear something comfortable that you feel good in, but make sure your footwear can cope with plenty of walking.
A good pair of boots, nice jeans, a cashmere jumper and a decent coat will take you a long way. And remember that British autumn weather can deliver four seasons in one day.
Coffee is serious business
I’m a great believer that a good coffee makes a sales day infinitely better.
Victor Victoria, at the end of Sun Lane, is a lovely little coffee spot and one worth knowing about. It’s a good place to start the morning before heading up to Tattersalls.
Cortado Espresso Bar is the coffee spot for those in the know. Another excellent independent option in Newmarket, it’s particularly handy for an early start.
Cortado- a Newmarket favourite, great coffee, fancy cups and good Sandwich’s and poke bowl - eat in or out
A lovely new addition to the High Street is Sourdough Hub, an independent artisan bakery that is well worth a visit. The sourdough is fabulous, and the pastries and cakes are pretty irresistible too.
My advice is to find somewhere you like and make it your morning stop. There’s something very enjoyable about watching Newmarket wake up, catching up on the daily news in the TDN and Racing Post over a good coffee before tipping up to the sales.
Where to eat
Newmarket isn’t overflowing with wonderful restaurants, but there are some very good options if you know where to go.
For a lovely dinner out, The Packhorse Inn in Moulton is one of my favourites. It’s a beautiful country pub with a slightly more polished feel, excellent food and a lovely atmosphere. Definitely worth booking ahead during sales week.
The Three Blackbirds in nearby Woodditton is another place we like. It’s a gorgeous country pub with a relaxed atmosphere and good food, perfect for escaping the bustle of the sales and settling in for a proper dinner.
Back in Newmarket, Unico on the High Street is a handy Italian for an easy lunch or dinner.
Indian restaurants are very popular in Britain, and Montaz, towards the top of town near the Clock Tower, is my pick if you fancy a curry.
Those would be my first recommendations rather than trying to give you an endless list.
Shopping: a few hidden gems
I won’t pretend that Newmarket is a shopper’s paradise. The High Street has seen better days, and some of the shopfronts are rather less charming than you might hope. But there are still a few gems to be found if you know where to look.
No55 Boutique is a lovely independent shop for contemporary fashion, stocking labels including Oui, Joseph Ribkoff, Monari, Naya and MAC.
Goldings is something of a Newmarket institution. It can be a little old-fashioned, but it’s worth a look for classic country clothing. When in Rome!
There’s also TK Maxx if you fancy a rummage, and Rockin Rabbit is a cute little shop for unusual presents, candles, mugs and baby gifts.
I’m also a big fan of Newmarket875, run by my friend Hanako Varian. It’s a lovely brand inspired by Newmarket’s racing heritage, and you can visit her pop-up at their yard by appointment or browse the collection online.
A little beauty and wellbeing maintenance
After several days of early mornings, long hours at the sales and dinners out, you may fancy a little maintenance.
TONI&GUY on Newmarket High Street is a handy option for a blow-dry, particularly if you have a dinner planned. There are also several nail bars around town, many offering walk-in appointments, so you can usually find somewhere for a quick manicure or pedicure without too much planning.
If you fancy a little exercise, there are also Pilates classes available locally. Mimi’s Collective and Wellbeing Warehouse are both within minutes of the High Street and offer classes worth checking out. It’s worth booking ahead to secure a place.
For something more relaxing, Newmarket Thai Spa is just a couple of minutes’ walk from Tattersalls and offers a very good massage. A 45-minute neck, back and shoulder massage is around £50 — a tempting option after several hours on your feet. You can book on +44 1638 661161.
And if you’re looking for something a little more indulgent, The Spa at Bedford Lodge is worth knowing about for treatments and a proper escape from the sales.
Sometimes an hour away from the horses is all you need before heading back for another look around the catalogue.
Get up early and watch the horses
One of the loveliest things you can do in Newmarket costs absolutely nothing.
Get up early and head to Warren Hill to watch the horses exercising.
Warren Hill, always a stunning sight
There is something rather magical about seeing strings of racehorses heading out in the morning, with the trainers and riders going about their daily routines.
You don’t have to be a racing expert to appreciate it.
It’s also a wonderful reminder that Newmarket isn’t simply somewhere that holds horse sales. Racing is woven into the everyday life of the town.
If you want to understand a little more about what you’re seeing, Discover Newmarket also organises guided tours of the gallops and training yards.
A little racing history
One of the places I would absolutely recommend visiting is the National Horseracing Museum, tucked just behind Newmarket High Street.
It’s a fascinating place to explore the history of British racing, with plenty to interest even those who aren’t completely immersed in the sport.
There is also a lovely museum shop with racing-related gifts and mementos, which is worth a look in its own right.
And if you fancy a coffee or lunch, The Tack Room restaurant is another good option, now run by the experienced team at Crown Catering.
Newmarket has such an extraordinary history, and visiting the museum gives you a much greater appreciation of why this town is so important to the thoroughbred industry.
The National Stud and Devil’s Dyke
Another lovely way to escape the sales for a couple of hours is to visit The National Stud, just outside Newmarket.
You can book a guided tour to see the stallions and learn a little more about the breeding side of the industry, or simply enjoy lunch at The Lodge, its lovely new café.
There’s also a beautiful walk along the historic Devil’s Dyke, which runs beside the stud and is perfect for some fresh air before heading back to Tattersalls.
Where to stay
Newmarket has a few particularly good accommodation options, although it’s worth booking well in advance for the major sales.
Bedford Lodge Hotel is an excellent choice, particularly if you enjoy having a spa and good facilities on site.
The Jockey Club Rooms is one of Newmarket’s most historic and atmospheric places to stay, right on the High Street and steeped in racing heritage. Although it’s a private members’ club, accommodation is also available to non-members at certain times of the year. Availability can be restricted during the major sales and race meetings, so it’s definitely worth enquiring well in advance.
The front of the famous Jockey Club Rooms
The Packhorse Inn also has rooms and would be a lovely option for anyone who prefers a country pub setting.
A little further afield: Bury St Edmunds
Only about 15 miles from Newmarket, Bury St Edmunds is a lovely historic market town and well worth a visit if you have a few hours to spare.
Park up and explore on foot — there are some great independent shops, cafés and restaurants, as well as the beautiful Abbey Gardens.
And don’t miss The Nutshell, famously one of Britain’s smallest pubs. It’s wonderfully old-fashioned and worth a look, even just for the novelty.
Cambridge: for a proper day out
If you have a little more time, Cambridge is another excellent option, around half an hour from Newmarket depending on traffic.
It’s a beautiful historic university city, famous for its colleges, architecture and, of course, rowing.
One of the loveliest things to do is go punting on the River Cam, where you can see some of the magnificent university buildings from the water.
You can also wander around the colleges, explore the historic streets and enjoy some very good shopping.
King’s College Chapel is particularly spectacular and absolutely worth visiting. It’s one of the most beautiful historic buildings in England.
For something cultural, the Fitzwilliam Museum is another excellent stop. It has a wonderful collection of art and antiquities, and its café makes it a lovely place to spend a couple of hours.
Cambridge also has some excellent Japanese restaurants and sushi options, along with plenty of other good places to eat. Margaret’s is one restaurant I’ve been recommended and would be interested in trying, although I would book ahead.
If you’re travelling with someone who is going to spend every waking hour at Tattersalls, Cambridge is probably your best opportunity for a proper shopping and sightseeing day.
The best bit?
And remember, champagne goes with everything! You even get a bottle gifted to you when you buy a yearling at the Book 1 Sales…
For me, the real joy of Newmarket is that it is completely and utterly a racing town.
You can get up early and watch horses on Warren Hill, have a lovely coffee, wander around the High Street and then spend the rest of the day at Tattersalls watching some of the finest young thoroughbreds in the world go through the sales ring.
There are familiar faces everywhere, fascinating conversations to overhear and always the possibility of seeing a future champion.
And even if you arrive knowing very little about buying horses, don’t be afraid to ask questions, study the catalogue or take an interest in a particular lot.
You might be surprised how quickly you find yourself drawn into it all.
Because while Newmarket might not have endless boutiques, restaurants or glamorous distractions, it has something rather special.
It is one of the great centres of the thoroughbred world, and during the major sales, there really is nowhere quite like it.
You might come to Tattersalls accompanying someone else, but there’s absolutely no reason you shouldn’t leave with a new favourite horse, some new friends and perhaps even a share in a future winner.
And if you do decide to buy one, just remember my advice about waving in the sales ring.
